This information is for 61 to 71 D100's
If you find any information that is not correct please e-mail.
We don't want any incorrect information.
DISCLAIMER: Use this information at your own risk, the information should be verified before use, I take no responsibility for the results.
Engine Swap: 225 /6 to small block V8
I have to thank Michael J Mansour, he gave me the information on what I needed to do this swap.
This is from my experience doing a 64 D100 225 /6 W/3spd Transmission
Note: Buy a complete engine,with a pilot busing, not a long block, this is from experience .
First there is a couple of things you'll need to make the swap
1. From Richard Jessop, via MoparNorm;
Dodge trucks from 61/68 have rear mounts on the bell housing and hydraulic clutches.
Dodge trucks from 69/71 have mounts on rear of trans and manual clutches.
2. Make sure the crank is drilled properly for the pilot bushing
The dimension is .9375 (15/16)
Pilot Bushing dimensions are: OD= .9375 (15/16), ID=.750 (3/4), length .875 (7/8)
3. V8 Flywheel and clutch, this should be 11 inch Beck and Borg, 10 spline
The 318 Poly and 318 LA engine use the same flywheel.
4. V8 Brakets, these bolt to the engine
5. Front sump pan and pick up tube
I have seen the stock pan used, there is about 2 inches between the pan and axle
6. V8 radiator or modify the 6 cyl radiator.
7. The /6 motor mounts will work but need to be moved down to the alternate holes in the frame.
8. The /6 throttle rod can be used if it is shortened 2 3/8 in. and rebent a little.
9. The bellhousing from the /6 will bolt to the small block
10. Exhaust, Hedman Headers are shipped with shipping paint. They should be stripped and painted with high temp paint.
Tip: Buy 5/16 HEX head header bolts. Hex head being the key word. Don't buy 12 point bolts.
This is my experiance:
Remember this is my first experiance with these old trucks and with Mopar for that matter. I bought the 64 with a bad 225 /6. I decided if I was going to change engines I would rather have a V8. A 318 sounded good. I saw an add for one and after talking to the guy I told him I'd take if he he could deliver it. He told me they used it as a smog engine. They would put it in their hot rod to smog it and then pull it after it was smogged I soon learned it was a 273, not a 318. First lesson, don't believe the seller. I learned that the block casting has the cubic inches. I spent way to much time money finding and buying the parts I needed to complete the engine. Exhaust, pully's, distributor, water neck, coil, thermastate and water neck, alternator bracket, dip stick and a few other parts. I thought I was ready, I bought a pilot bushing, it wouldn't fit. It turns out the crank was not drilled the correct diameter for the pilot bushing. My nieghbor, a machinist offered to turn down the bushing. I was offered a 76, 318 camper van with a 3 spd trans for free from a friend of mine. It has 58,000 original miles. I decided that would be the best way to go. I scrapped the idea of the 273. The van would give me everything I needed, I already had located the flywheel and clutch. The van has a 3 spd, so it is drilled for a pilot bushing. I removed the access panel from inside the cab. This gave me easy access to the trans, clutch linkage and Parking brake. I later discovered that when I removed the bolts holding the access panel, all the nuts on the underneath of the cab fell off. I guess they were tack welded. I discovered that the square plastic pieces that hold the license plate will fit in the hole where the access panel bolts go and then you can use the screws to hold the panel. The kit comes with 4 plastic pieces and 4 screws. The only problem I encountered was the 2 engine and 2 bellhousing mounting bolts, they need to be unbolted from the frame. The Slave cylinder was leaking and had to be replaced. The throttle linkage needs to be changed or modified to fit the V8. The /6 throttle rod can be shortened 2 3/8 in. and rebent a little. This engine has the electronic ignition system so you either need to get a standard distributer or get a electronic module, I got the module, $35. See the distributor swap section for the wiring. I also used the alternator from the van which required a electronic voltage regulator and some rewiring. See the Alternator swap section for the wiring. I also added a 12 in braided ground strap from the block to the frame. I used the bolt on the engine to motor mount bracket and the bolt that holds the motor mount to the frame. I used the radiator from the van so it had to be adapted to fit. The exhaust had to completely redone. I bought headers, balance kit and mufflers from Summitt Racing and the rest from Pep Boys. Tip: Buy 5/16 HEX head header bolts. Hex head being the key word. Don't buy 12 point bolts.
This is from my experience doing a 64 D100 225 /6 W/3spd Transmission
Note: Buy a complete engine,with a pilot busing, not a long block, this is from experience .
First there is a couple of things you'll need to make the swap
1. From Richard Jessop, via MoparNorm;
Dodge trucks from 61/68 have rear mounts on the bell housing and hydraulic clutches.
Dodge trucks from 69/71 have mounts on rear of trans and manual clutches.
2. Make sure the crank is drilled properly for the pilot bushing
The dimension is .9375 (15/16)
Pilot Bushing dimensions are: OD= .9375 (15/16), ID=.750 (3/4), length .875 (7/8)
3. V8 Flywheel and clutch, this should be 11 inch Beck and Borg, 10 spline
The 318 Poly and 318 LA engine use the same flywheel.
4. V8 Brakets, these bolt to the engine
5. Front sump pan and pick up tube
I have seen the stock pan used, there is about 2 inches between the pan and axle
6. V8 radiator or modify the 6 cyl radiator.
7. The /6 motor mounts will work but need to be moved down to the alternate holes in the frame.
8. The /6 throttle rod can be used if it is shortened 2 3/8 in. and rebent a little.
9. The bellhousing from the /6 will bolt to the small block
10. Exhaust, Hedman Headers are shipped with shipping paint. They should be stripped and painted with high temp paint.
Tip: Buy 5/16 HEX head header bolts. Hex head being the key word. Don't buy 12 point bolts.
This is my experiance:
Remember this is my first experiance with these old trucks and with Mopar for that matter. I bought the 64 with a bad 225 /6. I decided if I was going to change engines I would rather have a V8. A 318 sounded good. I saw an add for one and after talking to the guy I told him I'd take if he he could deliver it. He told me they used it as a smog engine. They would put it in their hot rod to smog it and then pull it after it was smogged I soon learned it was a 273, not a 318. First lesson, don't believe the seller. I learned that the block casting has the cubic inches. I spent way to much time money finding and buying the parts I needed to complete the engine. Exhaust, pully's, distributor, water neck, coil, thermastate and water neck, alternator bracket, dip stick and a few other parts. I thought I was ready, I bought a pilot bushing, it wouldn't fit. It turns out the crank was not drilled the correct diameter for the pilot bushing. My nieghbor, a machinist offered to turn down the bushing. I was offered a 76, 318 camper van with a 3 spd trans for free from a friend of mine. It has 58,000 original miles. I decided that would be the best way to go. I scrapped the idea of the 273. The van would give me everything I needed, I already had located the flywheel and clutch. The van has a 3 spd, so it is drilled for a pilot bushing. I removed the access panel from inside the cab. This gave me easy access to the trans, clutch linkage and Parking brake. I later discovered that when I removed the bolts holding the access panel, all the nuts on the underneath of the cab fell off. I guess they were tack welded. I discovered that the square plastic pieces that hold the license plate will fit in the hole where the access panel bolts go and then you can use the screws to hold the panel. The kit comes with 4 plastic pieces and 4 screws. The only problem I encountered was the 2 engine and 2 bellhousing mounting bolts, they need to be unbolted from the frame. The Slave cylinder was leaking and had to be replaced. The throttle linkage needs to be changed or modified to fit the V8. The /6 throttle rod can be shortened 2 3/8 in. and rebent a little. This engine has the electronic ignition system so you either need to get a standard distributer or get a electronic module, I got the module, $35. See the distributor swap section for the wiring. I also used the alternator from the van which required a electronic voltage regulator and some rewiring. See the Alternator swap section for the wiring. I also added a 12 in braided ground strap from the block to the frame. I used the bolt on the engine to motor mount bracket and the bolt that holds the motor mount to the frame. I used the radiator from the van so it had to be adapted to fit. The exhaust had to completely redone. I bought headers, balance kit and mufflers from Summitt Racing and the rest from Pep Boys. Tip: Buy 5/16 HEX head header bolts. Hex head being the key word. Don't buy 12 point bolts.
Electronic Distributor swap, V8
Special thanks Jeff Clare, he supplied most of this information
Poly and LA engines use the same distributor
You can update your existing distributor with a Pertronix. unit. This will retain the stock look or you can get the Mopar electronic ignition from a salvage yard or a new one from Mopar Performance.
Kit's from Mopar dealers can cost more than $250. The Mopar kit's are also available from Jeg's and Summit for around $180 for the small block and less for the big & Hemi blocks. The kit's have all that is needed for the up grade and come with instructions and the ECU box.. All the parts for the upgrade are also individually available from J & S.
Note from Frank: Most people also put in 8mm. spark plug wires, an Accel Super Coil, & an electronic voltage regulator if you don't already have one. This upgrade is well worth the effort(&$$$$).
Note from MoparNorm: If you're looking for electronic ignition (?) the Mopar Conversion kit is P3690426. This kit has the electronic distributor, ECU, wiring harness, ballast resistor, instructions and is available at Mopar, Jegs, Summit and others.
Note from JeffC: I have in the past used the accel wires, always having to cut the ends for the distrubter end plugs; but I just bought a set of MSD wires for the small block Ford and they fit just fine, plus no cutting, also they come in 2 size's 8mm and 8.5 thought I'd let you know.....
Note: All new kit's are the 4 post ECU
ECU box's are rated as follows:
Orange: 6,000 rpm
Chrome: 8,000 rpm
Gold: 12,000 rpm.
There are two types:
1. 5 post ECU box with a 4 post ballast resister. (see drawing below)
Wiring for 5 post ECU box with a 4 post ballast resister:
In the 4 post ballast sys. you have to use all 5 wires from the ECU box.
2 wires go to the dist. 2 wires go to the ballast and 1wire goes to the neg side of the coil. Starting at the top of the ECU box plug-in (side with the point that is closest to the mounting hole )that wire goes to side of ballast that has power when key is on(or run). going around to the right, next two should go to the dist. next to the right should go to the "start" side of the ballast. last wire goes to the neg. side of coil.
2. 4 post ECU box with a 2 post ballast resister.
Wiring for 4 post ECU box with a 2 post ballast resister:
On the drawings I have marked the wires, on both, with letter's.
'A' is the green wire. .
'B' is the black wire .
'C' is the light blue wire .
Green wire is not used in the 4 post ECU application..
Lt blue wire runs to the hot side of the ballast with the key 'on' .
Black wire runs to the negative side of the coil. .
Green wire used on the 4 post ballast only and runs to the post opposite the coil plug! It is important that the wires that run from the distributor, if cut, be hooked up in their proper position. .
Poly and LA engines use the same distributor
You can update your existing distributor with a Pertronix. unit. This will retain the stock look or you can get the Mopar electronic ignition from a salvage yard or a new one from Mopar Performance.
Kit's from Mopar dealers can cost more than $250. The Mopar kit's are also available from Jeg's and Summit for around $180 for the small block and less for the big & Hemi blocks. The kit's have all that is needed for the up grade and come with instructions and the ECU box.. All the parts for the upgrade are also individually available from J & S.
Note from Frank: Most people also put in 8mm. spark plug wires, an Accel Super Coil, & an electronic voltage regulator if you don't already have one. This upgrade is well worth the effort(&$$$$).
Note from MoparNorm: If you're looking for electronic ignition (?) the Mopar Conversion kit is P3690426. This kit has the electronic distributor, ECU, wiring harness, ballast resistor, instructions and is available at Mopar, Jegs, Summit and others.
Note from JeffC: I have in the past used the accel wires, always having to cut the ends for the distrubter end plugs; but I just bought a set of MSD wires for the small block Ford and they fit just fine, plus no cutting, also they come in 2 size's 8mm and 8.5 thought I'd let you know.....
Note: All new kit's are the 4 post ECU
ECU box's are rated as follows:
Orange: 6,000 rpm
Chrome: 8,000 rpm
Gold: 12,000 rpm.
There are two types:
1. 5 post ECU box with a 4 post ballast resister. (see drawing below)
Wiring for 5 post ECU box with a 4 post ballast resister:
In the 4 post ballast sys. you have to use all 5 wires from the ECU box.
2 wires go to the dist. 2 wires go to the ballast and 1wire goes to the neg side of the coil. Starting at the top of the ECU box plug-in (side with the point that is closest to the mounting hole )that wire goes to side of ballast that has power when key is on(or run). going around to the right, next two should go to the dist. next to the right should go to the "start" side of the ballast. last wire goes to the neg. side of coil.
2. 4 post ECU box with a 2 post ballast resister.
Wiring for 4 post ECU box with a 2 post ballast resister:
On the drawings I have marked the wires, on both, with letter's.
'A' is the green wire. .
'B' is the black wire .
'C' is the light blue wire .
Green wire is not used in the 4 post ECU application..
Lt blue wire runs to the hot side of the ballast with the key 'on' .
Black wire runs to the negative side of the coil. .
Green wire used on the 4 post ballast only and runs to the post opposite the coil plug! It is important that the wires that run from the distributor, if cut, be hooked up in their proper position. .
It is a good idea to ground the ECU box. You can run a wire from from one of it's mounting holes to either the engine block or the negative side of the battery, as a poor ground can cause a high speed miss and/or starting problems